Climbing

   “I was certain of this at least:  that nothing in the world except this was worth doing.”
-Aleister Crowley 
 

Except for a break between 1980 and 1985, when I found myself stuck back in Los Angeles and my weight went from 185 to 245, I’ve climbed and backpacked nearly continuously my entire life.  At times in my life that’s all I ever really wanted to do.  Too many “High points” to mention but low point was in 1985 when, with a young girlfriend who was having a much easier time at it than I was,  I was too heavy to do the mantle move on the 5th pitch of The Nutcracker, a moderate climb in Yosemite Valley, (which I done many times) and had to traverse off the route in embarrassment.  The route generally takes about 3 hours.   A year later, back in shape, I returned and unroped speed soloed the route 3 times in just over two hours, passing the same  roped party twice, which was cathartic but only partially made up for the prior embarrassment.  Amongst my greatest regrets is that, in more than 60 years of climbing, usually for reasons of speed but just as often for reasons of laziness and neglect – I didn’t take more photos.   Consequently, these images represent a small portion of my experience and reflect not so much what was photo-worthy, though they all are, but rather those periods of time that I happened to have a camera.  There are many photos of many climbs out there, taken by others.  Those folks know who they are and if they stumble across my site, it would be great to hear from them and swap images.  Chronology includes only longer climbs or shorter climbs with photos and some misc. stuff.

Miscellaneous Images
They Wore No Helmets (a video retrospective)
1963   Sentinel Rock, Southern Sierra
1967   Rocks above Chatsworth, California, w/Jeff Trigg
1967   Mt. San Gorgonio, Traverse Range, So Cal, w/Byron Yasumoto
1967   Mt. San Antonio, San Gabriel Mts, So Cal. w/Ellen John
1969,  Mt San Jacinto, San Jacinto Mtns., So Cal, w/Diane Serlin
1969   Mt. Agassiz, solo
1971   Mt. Whitney w/ Bruce Pavlik and Don Kaspar
1971   Mt St Helens, N Cascades, Washington, solo
1971   Mt Adams, N Cascades, Washinton, solo
1971   Mt. Olympus, Olympics, Washington, solo
1972   Longs Peak, Colorado Rockies, solo
1972    Teewinot, Tetons, Wyoming, solo
1972   Mount Shasta, Winter, w/Bruce Pavlik
1972   Mt Marcy, New York, solo
1973   North Palisade, U-Notch, California w/Steve Dashe
1973   Mt Brewer-North Ridge to North Guard, High Sierra, solo
1973   Mount Whitney, East Buttress w/Bruce Pavlik
1974   Mt Sill, Swiss Arete (E. Butress), High Sierras, California, uroped solo
1974   Traverse of Sawtooth Peak, Matterhorn Peak, The Dragtooth,  Yosemite, solo fall and injury
1975   Mt. Sill, From Glacier, w/Rudy Torbich
1975   N Palisade, East Butress, w/Rudy Torbich
1975   Mt Winchell, East Face, w/Rudy Torbich

1975   Thunderbolt Pk, High Sierra, w/Rudy Torbich
1976    Bishop’s Balcony, Yosemite
1976    Royal Arches, Yosemite, solo
1976    S Face Washington Column w/Art Baggett
1976    Chounard-Herbert Rt, Sentinel Rock, Yosemite w/Art Baggett
1977    El Capitan, Yosemite, w/Bill Lester
1977    Ahwahnee Butress, Yosemite w/Bill Lester in February
1977    Washington Column, Direct Route, w/Bill Lester
1977    E Face Mt Humphries in winter, High Sierra, solo

1977    Royal Arches and others, Yosemite, w/Katie Draher
1977    Middle Cathedral Rock, East Butress, Yosemite, w/Dave McClellan
1977    Trans-Sierra Ski, Yosemite, solo

1978    Lost Arrow Spire Yosemite, w/ Pete McGee
1978    El Capitan, The Nose, Yosemite w/ Dave McLellan
1978    East Quarter Dome, Yosemite, w/ Dave McLellan
1978    Mt. Whitney, East Face, High Sierra, w/Dave McLellan
1978    East Face, Aiguille Extra, High Sierra, w/Dave Mclellan
1978    South Face of Washinton Column, Yosemite, w/Dave Mclellan
1978    Sentinel Rock, West Face, Yosemite, w/Dave McClellan
1978     Higher Cathedral Rock, NE Butress, W/Dave McClellan
1978     Basket Dome, Yosemite, “The Lost Kishka” (FA), w/Dave Mcclellan
1978     Sentinel Rock, North Face, Steck-Salathe, Yosemite w/Dave McClellan
1978     Trans-Sierra Ski, Yosemite, w/Katie Draher
1979    Clyde Peak, High Sierra, w/Dave Mclellan
1979    El Capitan, East Butress, w/ Bill Lester

1980    Cathedral Peak, NE Butress, Yosemite, w/Belle Yang
1985    Needles, Southern Sierra, California, w/Belle Yang
1987    5.10c Hand Crack, Yosemite unroped solo
1987    Giant Sequoia Tree, Yosemite, w/Todd Hoitsma, Rob Warren, Bill Lester, ARRESTED!  (again…lol)
1987    Middle Cathedral Rock, East Buttress, Yosemite w/Richard Lake
1987    Third Pillar, Mt Dana, Yosemite, w/Richard Lake
1988    Lamb Dome, Tuolumne, unroped solo
1988    Serenity Crack, Yosemite, unroped solo
1988     A Separate Reality, Yosemite
1988     El Capitan, East Butress w/?
1988     South Face of Clyde Minaret, High Sierra w/Alfred Tao
1988     Royal Arches, Yosemite, w/Bill Lester, Felix Rigau
1988     North Dome, Crested Jewel, Yosemite, w/Bill Lester
1989     Washington Column, The Prow, Solo
1989    Third Pillar of Mt. Dana, Yosemite, unroped solo
1989    El Capitan, East Butress, unroped solo
1989    South Face of Washington Column, Yosemite w/Bill Lester
1991    Grand Teton, Exum Ridge Direct, w/Ingrid Nystrom
1991    El Capitan, Salathe Wall, Yosemite w/Brent Bishop
1991    Devil’s Tower, Wyoming, w/Ingrid Nystrom
1991    Half Dome, SE Face, Yosemite w/Ingrid Nystrom
1992    Sentinel Rock, Chounard-Herbert, Yosemite, w/Ingrid Nystrom
1992    Mt, Blanc, Chamonix, French Alps, w/Ingrid Nystrom
1992    Aiguille Du Midi, Chamonix, French Alps, w/Ingrid Nystrom

1992    Aiguille du Midi, Arete du Cosmiques, Chamonix, French Alps w/Ingrid Nystrom
1992    Middle Cathedral Rock, East Buttress w/Ingrid Nystrom
1992   Lost Arrow Spire, Yosemite, w/Ingrid Nystrom
1992   Climbing above Tenaya Lake, Tuolumne. w/Ingrid Nystrom and Bill Lester
1992   El Capitan, Salathe Wall, Yosemite w/Brent Bishop
1992   Mono Lake Tufa Towers, Ingrid Nystrom
1993   Matterhorn, N. Arete-Hornli Arete Traverse, Switzerland, unroped solo
1993   Mont Aiguille, Vercours Alps, France, unroped solo
1993   Petit Dru, Bonatti Pillar, French Alps, solo
1993   Mt Blanc, Trois Monts-Cosmiques, France, unroped solo
1993   Lost Arrow Spire, Yosemite, w/?
1994    Mt.  Sir Donald, NW Arete, Canadian Rockies, unroped solo

1994   North Face of Mt Athabasca, Canadian Rockies,  unroped solo
1994   Pic Du Midi Ossau, French Pyrennees, w/Bill Lester
1994   Mount Robson, Canadian Rockies, unroped solo
1994   Cima Ovest, Italy, w/Sabine Farber
1994   The Eiger, Mittillegi Arete, Switzerland, w/Bill Lester
1994   Lost Arrow Spire, Yosemite, solo
1994   Steck-Salathe Route, Yosemite, w/Eric James
1994   El Capitan, East Butress w/Eric James
1994   Pic De Sant Cugat, Spain w/Bill Lester
1994    Aiguilles Des Amitges, Spanish Pyrenees w/Bill Lester
1994    Barre Noire Couloir to Barre Des Ecrin’s, France, w/ Pam and Frederique
1994    Mt. Pelvoux, French Alps, unroped solo
1995   Fairview Dome, North Face, Yosemite, w/Bill Lester
1995   The Wetterhorn, Swiss Alps, solo
1995   Lost Arrow Spire, Yosemite, w/Marta Prada
1995   Higher Cathedral Spire, Yosemite, w/Marta Prada
1995   North Dome, Crested Jewel, Yosemite, w/Marta Prada
1995   Fairview Dome, North Face, w/Marta Prada

1996   Corrugation Corner, Tahoe, California, unroped solo
1997   Castle Mountain, Brewer Butress, Canadian Rockies w/Martha
1998     Grand Teton, North Ridge, w/ Ryan
1998     Devil’s Tower, Wyoming, w/Ryan
1998     Needles, S Dakota, w/Ryan
1998    Grand Teton, East Ridge w/Joe Quinn
1998    Mt. Owen, Tetons, Wyoming, unroped solo

1999    South Crack, Tuolumne, w/Martha
1999    Tetons, Traverse: Teewinot-Mt. Owen-Grand Teton-Middle Teton. unroped solo
1999    John Muir Trail in 7 days
2000    Grand Teton, Exum Ridge Direct, Wyoming, w/Owen
2001    John Muir Trail in 8 days
2001    Sonora Pass to Yosemite Valley 82 miles, Sept 9-12, 2001
2001    Clover Meadow to Yosemite Valley, Oct 7 (my 50th birthday) 50 miles in 24 hours.

2001    Mt Dana, California, w/Martha
2002    East Face of Mt. Whitney, High Sierra, w/Martha
2003    Martha at Ellery Lake, Tuolumne
2004    Iron Mountain Lake w/Martha, Reno and Sheila
2004    Cathedral Peak, Tuolumne, w/Martha and Robin
2004    Courtright Reservoir, Spring Dome w/Martha
2004    Shuteye Peak, Southern Yosemite, w Martha and Robin
2004    Hermaphrodite Flake, Tenaya Lake, Yosemite w/Martha and Robin
2004    Ribbon Falls, Yosemite
2004    “CS Concerto”, Yosemite Valley, w/Martha
2004    Sierra Point, Yosemite, w/Martha and Robin
2004    Willow Creek w/Martha
2004    Yosemite Point w/Martha and Robin
2005    Grand Teton, Exum Ridge w/Robin
2006    Mt Conness, North Ridge, Yosemite, unroped solo
2016    Mt. Whitney, East Face, 5.9 variation, unroped solo (age 65)