Climbing

   “I was certain of this at least:  that nothing in the world except this was worth doing.”
-Aleister Crowley 
 

Except for a break between 1980 and 1985, when my weight went from 185 to 245, I’ve climbed and backpacked nearly continuously my entire life.  At times in my life that’s all I ever really wanted to do.  My low point was in 1985 when, with a girlfriend, I was too heavy to do the mantle move on the 5th pitch of The Nutcracker in Yosemite Valley, (which I done many times) and had to traverse off the route in embarrassment.   A year later, back in shape, I returned and unroped soloed the route 3 times in just over two hours which was cathartic but only partially made up for the prior embarrassment.  Amongst my greatest regrets is that, in more than 60 years of climbing, usually for reasons of speed but just as often for reasons of laziness and neglect – I didn’t take more photos.   Consequently, these images represent a small portion of my experience and reflect not so much what was photo-worthy, though they all are, but rather those periods of time that I happened to have a camera.  There are many photos of many climbs out there, taken by others.  Those folks know who they are and if they stumble across my little site, it would be great to hear from them and swap images.  Chronology includes only longer climbs or shorter climbs with photos and some misc. stuff.

Miscellaneous Images
They Wore No Helmets (a video retrospective)
1963   Sentinel Rock, Southern Sierra
1967   Rocks above Chatsworth, California, w/Jeff Trigg
1967   Mt. San Gorgonio w/Byron Yasumoto
1967   Mt. San Antonio w/Ellen John
1969   Mt. Agassiz, solo
1971   Mt. Whitney w/ Bruce Pavlik and Don Kaspar
1971   Mt St Helens, N Cascades, Washington, solo
1971   Mt Adams, N Cascades, Washinton, solo
1971   Mt. Olympus, Olympics, Washington, solo
1972   Longs Peak, Colorado Rockies, solo
1972   Mount Shasta, Winter, w/Bruce Pavlik
1972   Mt Marcy, New York, solo
1973   North Palisade, U-Notch, California w/Steve Dashe
1973   Mt Brewer-North Ridge to North Guard, High Sierra, solo
1973   Mount Whitney, East Buttress w/Bruce Pavlik
1974   Traverse of Sawtooth Peak, Matterhorn Peak, The Dragtooth,  Yosemite, solo fall and injury
1975   N Palisade, East Butress, w/Rudy Torbich
1975   Mt Winchell, East Face, w/Rudy Torbich

1975   Thunderbolt Pk, High Sierra, w/Rudy Torbich
1976    Bishop’s Balcony, Yosemite
1976    Royal Arches, Yosemite, solo
1976    S Face Washington Column w/Art Baggett
1976    Chounard-Herbert Rt, Sentinel Rock, Yosemite w/Art Baggett
1977    El Capitan, Yosemite, w/Bill Lester
1977    Ahwahnee Butress, Yosemite w/Bill Lester
1977    Washington Column, Direct Route, w/Bill Lester
1977    E Face Mt Humphries in winter, High Sierra, solo

1977    Royal Arches and others, Yosemite, w/Katie Draher
1977    Middle Cathedral Rock, East Butress, Yosemite, w/Dave McClellan
1977    Trans-Sierra Ski, Yosemite, solo

1978    Lost Arrow Spire Yosemite, w/ Pete McGee
1978   El Capitan, The Nose, Yosemite w/ Dave McLellan
1978   East Quarter Dome, Yosemite, w/ Dave McLellan
1978    Mt. Whitney, East Face, High Sierra, w/Dave McLellan
1978    East Face, Aiguille Extra, High Sierra, w/Dave Mclellan
1978   South Face of Washinton Column, Yosemite, w/Dave Mclellan
1978   Sentinel Rock, West Face, Yosemite, w/Dave McClellan
1978   Basket Dome, Yosemite, “The Lost Kishka” (FA), w/Dave Mcclellan
1978   Sentinel Rock, North Face, Steck-Salathe, Yosemite w/Dave McClellan
1978   Trans-Sierra Ski, Yosemite, w/Katie Draher
1979   Clyde Peak, High Sierra, w/Dave Mclellan
1979   El Capitan, East Butress, w/ Bill Lester

1980   Cathedral Peak, Yosemite, w/Belle Yang
1985   Needles, Southern Sierra, California, w/Belle Yang
1987   5.10c Hand Crack, Yosemite unroped solo
1987   Giant Sequoia Tree, Yosemite, w/Todd Hoitsma, Rob Warren, Bill Lester, ARRESTED!  (again…lol)
1987   Middle Cathedral Rock, East Buttress, Yosemite w/Richard Lake
1987   Third Pillar, Mt Dana, Yosemite, w/Richard Lake
1988   Lamb Dome, Tuolumne, unroped solo
1988   Serenity Crack, Yosemite, unroped solo
1988   A Separate Reality, Yosemite
1988   El Capitan, East Butress w/?
1988   South Face of Clyde Minaret, High Sierra w/Alfred Tao
1988   Royal Arches, Yosemite, w/Bill Lester, Felix Rigau
1988    North Dome, Crested Jewel, Yosemite, w/Bill Lester
1989   Washington Column, The Prow, Solo
1989   Third Pillar of Mt. Dana, Yosemite, unroped solo
1989   El Capitan, East Butress, unroped solo
1989   South Face of Washington Column, Yosemite w/Bill Lester
1991   Grand Teton, Exum Ridge Direct, w/Ingrid Nystrom
1991   El Capitan, Salathe Wall, Yosemite w/Brent Bishop
1991   Devil’s Tower, Wyoming, w/Ingrid Nystrom
1991   Half Dome, SE Face, Yosemite w/Ingrid Nystrom
1992   Sentinel Rock, Chounard-Herbert, Yosemite, w/Ingrid Nystrom
1992   Mt, Blanc, Chamonix, French Alps, w/Ingrid Nystrom
1992   Aiguille Du Midi, Chamonix, French Alps, w/Ingrid Nystrom

1992   Aiguille du Midi, Arete du Cosmiques, Chamonix, French Alps w/Ingrid Nystrom
1992   Middle Cathedral Rock, East Buttress w/Ingrid Nystrom
1992   Lost Arrow Spire, Yosemite, w/Ingrid Nystrom
1992   Climbing above Tenaya Lake, Tuolumne. w/Ingrid Nystrom and Bill Lester
1992   El Capitan, Salathe Wall, Yosemite w/Brent Bishop
1992   Mono Lake Tufa Towers, Ingrid Nystrom
1993   Matterhorn, N. Arete-Hornli Arete Traverse, Switzerland, unroped solo
1993   Mont Aiguille, Vercours Alps, France, unroped solo
1993   Petit Dru, Bonatti Pillar, French Alps, solo
1993   Mt Blanc, France, unroped solo
1993   Lost Arrow Spire, Yosemite, w/?

1994   North Face of Mt Athabasca, Canadian Rockies,  unroped solo
1994   Pic Du Midi Ossau, French Pyrennees, w/Bill Lester
1994   Mount Robson, Canadian Rockies, unroped solo
1994   Cima Ovest, Italy, w/Sabine Farber
1994   The Eiger, Mittillegi Arete, Switzerland, w/Bill Lester
1994   Lost Arrow Spire, Yosemite, solo
1994   Steck-Salathe Route, Yosemite, w/Eric James
1994   El Capitan, East Butress w/Eric James
1994   Pic De Sant Cugat, Spain w/Bill Lester
1994   Aiguilles Des Amitges, Spanish Pyrenees w/Bill Lester
1994   Barre Noire Couloir to Barre Des Ecrin’s, France, w/ Pam and Frederique
1994    Mt. Pelvoux, French Alps, unroped solo
1995   Fairview Dome, North Face, Yosemite, w/Bill Lester
1995   The Wetterhorn, Swiss Alps, solo
1995   Lost Arrow Spire, Yosemite, w/Marta Prada
1995   Higher Cathedral Spire, Yosemite, w/Marta Prada
1995   North Dome, w/Marta Prada
1995   Fairview Dome, North Face, w/Marta Prada

1996   Corrugation Corner, Tahoe, California, unroped solo
1997   Castle Mountain, Brewer Butress, Canadian Rockies w/Martha
1998    Grand Teton, North Ridge, w/ Ryan
1998    Devil’s Tower, Wyoming, w/Ryan
1998    Needles, S Dakota, w/Ryan
1998   Grand Teton, East Ridge w/Joe Quinn
1998   Mt. Owen, Tetons, Wyoming, unroped solo

1999   South Crack, Tuolumne, w/Martha
1999   John Muir Trail in 7 days
2001   John Muir Trail in 8 days
2001   Sonora Pass to Yosemite Valley 82 miles, Sept 9-12, 2001
2001   Clover Meadow to Yosemite Valley, Oct 7 (my 50th birthday) 50 miles in 24 hours.

2001   Mt Dana, California, w/Martha
2002   East Face of Mt. Whitney, High Sierra, w/Martha
2003   Martha at Ellery Lake, Tuolumne
2004   Iron Mountain Lake w/Martha, Reno and Sheila
2004   Cathedral Peak, Tuolumne, w/Martha and Robin
2004   Courtright Reservoir, Spring Dome w/Martha
2004   Shuteye Peak, Southern Yosemite, w Martha and Robin
2004   Hermaphrodite Flake, Tenaya Lake, Yosemite w/Martha and Robin
2004   Ribbon Falls, Yosemite
2004   “CS Concerto”, Yosemite Valley, w/Martha
2004   Sierra Point, Yosemite, w/Martha and Robin
2004   Willow Creek w/Martha
2004   Yosemite Point w/Martha and Robin
2005   Grand Teton, Exum Ridge w/Robin
2006   Mt Conness, North Ridge, Yosemite, unroped solo
2016   Mt. Whitney, East Face, 5.9 variation, unroped solo (age 65)